Scanning the ingredients list on skin care items is a must for anyone interested in upping their beauty game. It can feel like being thrown in the deep end though, even for skin care pros!
Do you often find yourself bewildered by all the chemical names and Latin botanical names in the ingredients? Brands are obligated to list skin care ingredients by their standardized names according to INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient), the international standardized system for identifying cosmetics ingredients. Many ingredients listed by chemical or botanical names may have common names that are more familiar. For example, ascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside are all forms of Vitamin C.
Ingredients Are Listed in Descending Order of Weight.
The more concentrated an ingredient is in a product, the higher up it will be on the ingredient list. That’s why actives are usually amongst the top five ingredients in a formula.
One thing to note is that this rule only applies to ingredients above 1% concentration in a formula. After the 1% cutoff mark, brands are free to list ingredients in any order they see fit.
Main Types of Skin Care Ingredients
Active ingredients — ingredients like retinoids, Vitamin C and UV filters that provide the effects integral to the product’s functions
Emollients — ingredients like shea butter and jojoba oil that keep skin hydrated while adding a silky-smooth touch to the formula
Texturizers —ingredients like xanthan gum that give products a creamy texture
Preservatives — ingredients that extend the shelf life of a product
Fragrances — scents aren’t usually listed as they’re considered a trade secret, unless they are known irritants.
Does a Product Have the Right Ingredients for My Skin?
Reading the ingredient list of a product is a great way to gauge whether it can deliver on its claims. A golden rule is to scan for active ingredients, which usually appear at the top of the list along with base ingredients like water, to note the level of concentration in a formula.
Notable exceptions include retinol, which is efficacious even at a concentration below 1%. Most beginner retinol serums contain only 0.1% to 0.3% of retinol or retinol derivatives, so don’t worry if you see the ingredient appear near the bottom of the list.
Here are some ingredients you should look for that cater to specific skin care needs.
Hydration
Look for: Humectants like hyaluronic acid (sodium hyaluronate) and glycerin raise skin’s moisture levels, emollients like ceramides smooth and soften skin, and occlusives like shea butter seal in moisture.
Soothing Care
Look for: Herbal extracts with anti-inflammatory properties like centella asiatiaca, heartleaf (houttuynia cordata) and aloe vera extracts. Also go for skin-strengtheners chock-full of antioxidants like panthenol, propolis and Vitamin E (tocopherol).
Acne Care
Look for: If you’re dealing with breakouts, look for acne treatments based in benzoyl peroxide for a quick fix. To prevent flare-ups, use exfoliators infused with salicylic acid to purify pores.
Brightening
Look for: Brightening agents like Vitamin C (ascorbic acid), niacinamide and tranexamic acid fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation while promoting glow. Chemical exfoliants such as AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) like glycolic acid and BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) like salicylic acid can clarify skin by sloughing off dead skin cells.
Cleansing
Look for: Gentle surfactants like lauryl glucoside and cocamidopropyl betaine, which combine pH-balancing properties with superb cleansing power. Stay clear of formulas containing sodium lauryl sulfate as it can potentially strip skin of moisture. If your skin is dry, seek cleansers rich in hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, centella asiatica and ceramides.
Sun Care:
Look for: UV filters are capable of fending off UV damage. Common chemical filters include avobenzone, octinoxate and oxybenzone; common mineral filters include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
Anti-Aging
Look for: Collagen-boosting ingredients like peptides, retinol and salmon PDRN. These active ingredients combat signs of aging like sagginess, wrinkles and fine lines.
Antioxidant-rich ingredients like Vitamin C (ascorbic acid), Vitamin E (tocopherol) and niacinamide fend off free radical damage while strengthening the skin barrier and boosting skin radiance, making them ideal for anti-aging purposes as well.
The Formula Absolutely Matters
No two products are exactly the same, even if they share similar key ingredients. How ingredients work and interact with other actives in the formula is also crucial in determining the skin care benefits and user experience of a product.
Are There Ingredients I’ll Need to Avoid?
Yes, but because we’re talking about your skin, only you know best what ingredients to avoid. If you have allergies to specific ingredients, make sure to check that the product doesn’t contain the ingredient in question. If you’re worried certain ingredients like mineral oils, parabens and oxybenzone may aggravate your skin, the ingredients list is a great place to double-check if a product suits your skin type and needs.
Alternatively, check to see if there are an active ingredients in the product that your skin absolutely loves, whether that’s niacinamide or salmon PDRN!
It’s Hard, or Is It?
Reminder: don’t overthink. Ingredients lists are just that − a list of ingredients. They offer a lot of important information but not the whole picture. Many other things come into play in the functions and performance of a formula, such as the relative concentration level of ingredients and how individual ingredients are extracted and produced.
The best way to determine whether a product can deliver on its promises is by using it. Dig deep but trust your instincts, and if possible, do a patch test first.
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